Solid and vented rotors made with gray cast iron are the most common types of rotors. Drilled and slotted rotors are a variation of the same design. A solid brake rotor is just that – solid. There is no space between the two friction surfaces. A vented brake rotor more commonly has a space between the two friction surfaces of the rotor. This helps with cooling and is more common on the front of the vehicle because front brakes do 70-80% of the braking and endure the most heat.

Unlike slotted or drilled faced rotors, general stock replacement rotors are normally solid faced rotors that are either solid or vented. When replacing a rotor, there should be little confusion as to whether you need a vented rotor or not. If your car came with a vented brake rotor, then the replacement part will be a vented brake rotor. If the car came with a solid brake rotor, the replacement part is a solid brake rotor. No solid rotor replacements are available for a vehicle that came originally equipped with a vented rotor.

Slotted and drilled rotors are a performance modification that do not increase braking power, but might aid in the cooling of the rotors in high heat situations. There are both advantages and disadvantages to having slotted or drilled rotors. One rule of thumb is that if you are just daily driving, there is no reason to get slotted or drilled rotors other than to improve the way your rotors and wheels look. (Drilled and slotted rotors can have an aesthetic appeal to them because they may have a rust prevention measure applied to them and can be indicative of a performance braking system.) One disadvantage of drilled rotors is that they will provide more friction against your pads and reduce the life of them. Another disadvantage is the potential for a drilled brake rotor to crack when subjected to thermal stress. A drilled hole can upset the grain structure of the metal; the result is an uneven temper in the metal. As the brake rotor cools, the uneven temper can cause cracks. The most common crack seen is located from the outer most drilled hole to the edge of the brake rotor. Since the edge of the brake rotor is the first to cool, this is where the most uneven area of cooling occurs. For this reason, drilled rotors are not well suited to racing conditions in which high brake component temperatures are always occurring. Cracks cause vibrations and the larger the crack the more dangerous. The advantages are that the scrub friction of the holes and slots, while increasing the wear on your pad, reduce the chance of the pads becoming glazed.

Slotted and drilled rotors have a series of slotted channels, drilled holes, or both. These rotors primary purpose is to reduce the effects of brake fade. When the temperature is too hot for the pad and rotor to work properly together, brake fade occurs, which refers to the reduced feeling of brake power. The high temperature causes the brake pads and rotors to release a gas, thus reducing the friction that they would provide at lower temperatures. The slots and drilled holes are a means to dissipate this gas and reduce brake fade. The drilled rotors may even help cool the braking system; however, the drilled holes may encourage the temperature related fractures previously mentioned. Of course, when you are experiencing brake fade, you are punishing your rotors to the point that you could warp or crack them regardless of whether or not they are slotted or drilled.

Classic car restoration can be both a satisfying hobby and a lucrative career. In fact, the lucrative career usually starts out as the satisfying hobby. Such was the case with me. Car restoration to me was like a kid working on model cars at the table. Only my table was a garage floor, and my model would actually squeal tires when Ifinished. I have been building and rebuilding classic cars for 37 years now, and I have picked up some experience and lessons learned that I would like to pass on to you.

The first thing you need to determine is your budget. How much can you afford? Unless you are very rich, you probably shouldn’t shoot for history making classics. Model T’s and such are most likely not in your grasp. Realize though, that some of the cars that weren’t the hottest model on the streets in the 60’s really turn heads today when you roll by a crowd in the gleaming relic. One thing that will help you keep cost down is to find a car that is in already decent shape. The less abused, the easier and less expensive it should be to restore (not to mention the saved labor time).

You will also need to decide what type of car you are after. In this day and age of mini compact fuel efficient cars, muscle cars seem to be making a real comeback among collectors.

Then you will need to decide whether you want to go for a true classic car restoration; using all original parts, or a custom updated version of the classic. True classic generally will take alot more time and money. Tracking down the parts you want can be very difficult, though the internet has made a profound difference in the ability to locate parts. Specialty auto parts websites, internet auction websites and junkyards are all great places to find what you need. There is very little room for creativity in true classic, as your aim is to reproduce what used to be. In custom car restoration, there is plenty of room for expression and creativity. It is generally less expensive, but will also sell for less (much less) than a true classic. It is, however, very fun to put your own spin on a classic. Plus, with the right flare and twist, you can sell customs very quickly and easily.

Whatever route you take, I know that you will find classic car restoration to be a satisfying hobby and/or career. Always respect the vehicle, and above all, have fun!